The riddle of Renaissance fashion has been solved: why voluminous pleated collars were worn in the XVI-XVII centuries

Have you ever wondered why people wore large white collars in the 16th and 17th centuries and what made them so popular? Historian Amy Boyington explains on her Instagram that these collars were worn not only by men, but also by women and children.

Initially, in the mid-16th century, they were quite small and served to protect the doublet (men's outerwear) from contamination that could occur during eating and drinking. However, over time, their size and design became more complex.

The collars were white, made of linen cambric and treated with starch to achieve a characteristic effect. Over time, they became a separate piece of clothing that was tied at the back.

These collars symbolized wealth and high status, as it took a lot of effort to create such flawless shapes. A special fold, known as a figure-eight, required considerable time to achieve the perfect shape, which indicated that their owner was extremely wealthy and could afford such a luxurious accessory.

The more folds in the form of eights, the richer the person was considered to be, because it required even more time and effort. Lace collars quickly gained popularity because they allowed for more intricate details. Multilayered lace collars again indicated the extraordinary wealth and fashionable taste of the wearer.

At the beginning of the seventeenth century, these large round collars went out of fashion, giving way to new ones with a neckline. However, even in this new version, the intricate drapery remained noticeable.

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